Switches
A switch is a hairpiece that is used for creating a ponytail style on the hair. A switch can be both human orsynthetic hair and is attached using the loop at the top.
Switches are classified according to the number of stems, for example:
one-stem switch: pony tail
two-stem switch: coiled chignon three-stem switch: plait.
Halo Weft
A halo weft is a relitively new way of adding extra length andhair. The hairpiece is a thick weft attached to a string halo that is placed onto the crown and covered with natural hair. Although these are a quick way of adding extra hair they are quite impractical since they do slip out of the hair when the head is tipped etc.
Hair Wefts
Wefted hair extentions can be bought in all different colours and for different purposes. The hair extensions readily available are 90% of the time machine made therefore less time consuming to make and much cheaper to buy. Hand made wefts are much more expensive to buy since more time has been invested in making them. They are generally made with three weaving silks often with weaving wire that allows the wefts to be bent into a shape. The first picture to the left shows the making of hair wefts and the different knots that are used. The second picture shows a picture of two small wefts and the hair used to make them, it also explains a few ways of wefting that can be used.
The third picture shows a finished hair weft including two colours, this could then have clips sewn onto it and be used as hair extensions to add length or thickness.
Half Wig
A half wig can be used to add length and volume to hair without completely covering someones natural hairline or parting. They often sit just behind or onthe crown of the head, since they are not visible they are generally made from sewn wefts.
Diamond Mesh
A diamond mesh is a long weft that is sewn together in the pattern shown to the left with thread and a needle. The weft is made with a thin wire as one of the weaving silks, this ensures the weft can be bent and moulded into the diamond chignon shape. A hair extention clip can then be attached to the hairpiece and it can be worn clipped onto the natural hair. The diamond mesh can be used when a ponytail is required or just an additional section of hair.
Pull Through
A pull through hair piece is exactly that; a hairpiece that natural hair can be pulled through it in order to bulk out the hair,add thickness and volume. It is the ideal solution to partial hair loss, bald spots, or overall thinning.
The foundation is constructed similar to a honeycomb, it is constructed from weaved hair wefts that are sewn together into the diamond shape with room between the wefts that hair can be poked through and incorporated into the piece
Full Lace Wig
Whole lace Wigs offer parting anywhere. The lace is all over. Usually the lace on the front and back is Swiss or French and the lace on the crown is mesh lace. The construction of these wigs is very lightweight, stretchable. They are usually handmade which means the strands of hair are manually tied to the lace. The mesh lace allows for the hair to be parted any where, is breathable and light weight.This wig can be made to measure.The front hairline is knotted to shape, and the hairstyle can be short or long. It can be made fairly quickly as it has no galloon sewing. The price range is medium to expensive. The foundation is made of several pieces of very fine nets, sewn and moulded on to the correct size of wooden block. The wig is then knotted all over. Theatre companies with workshops mostly produce this type of wig. They can be easily remodelled and reused.
Machine Made Wig
This is a mass-produced cheap wig in various sizes. The foundation is made of machine-sewn vegetable net. The machine weft is made from synthetic fibre or reduced hair, and is machine sewn on to the foundation. If the wig is made of synthetic fibre, it cannot have its style changed. If it is made of hair reduced by acids, it can be styled with limitations. It is used on stage or screen, and is ideal for crowd scenes.
Basic capsare the most common and affordable design. Wefts of hair are sewn onto the cap, which has a closed lace layer at the crown. The hair is cut and styled into a specific style and the crown is often teased or crimped so you cannot see down through to the cap. This type of cap often gives the hair volume at the crown.
Some wigs are referred to ascapless. This is a bit of a misnomer as there is a cap, but instead of the closed lace layer at the crown, it has vertical lace strips with open spaces between the wefts.
Lace Front Wig
This wig can be either part hand tied or still fully hand tied. All kinds of wigs can be refronted even machine made synthetic wigs.
Lace front wigs are exactly as the name states. They just have the lace in the front of the unit.Lace front wigs create the illusion of natural hair growth along the hairline. This adds to the natural appearance of a wig and allows for styling away from the face.
This net is sewn across the front hairline of the wig, coming down on to the forehead. This enables us to knot an actual hairline for theatrical and media use. The net can be covered with make-up and become invisible. Styling and dressing procedures are similar to those for the previous wig. However, note that this wig needs special attention when it is blocked up on a malleable block. The hair-lace front must be protected from tearing. The front must also be protected from discoloration. The hair-lace front can be changed if it becomes damaged or if a different hairline is required. This wig is expensive but can have a long adaptable life on stage or screen.
Reference:Baker, P. (1993). Wigs and make-up for theatre, television, and film. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann.
Ruskai, M. and Lowery, A. L. (2010).Wig Making and Styling: A Complete Guide for Theatre & Film. United Kingdom: Focal Press.
Three Part Lace Front Foundation
The pattern consistsof one parts lace, one part foundation net and one part caul net.
The foundation pieces are cut and pinned into position on the block allowing 1.5 - 2 cms overlap creating a seam between each piece. The outer edge of the foundation net is turned under to create a hem and whipped.
All inner edges are whipped flat to each other with nylon thread where darts will have formed in specific places. The only edge that is without a seam should be the final piece- the lace front. This front edge at the hairline is known as a 'free edge'.
Once all parts have been whipped together it is time to attach the front lace. A double seam is whipped to attach this t the surrounding nets. When placing the front lace it is important to make sure it sits flat, to the block, on and in front of the hairline (at least 2 cms) as this will form teh visible area that is adhered to the artists forehead during application. There can be no evidence of darts of folds on the front hairline.
Full Fine Lace Net
A fine sheer materialthat comes in different thicknesses and skin colours. It has a honeycomb-shaped construction onto which hair is knotted or hand tied.
Hair lace is measured in denier(yup, just like stockings!). Lace used for film/TV is 20 or 30 denier, with the newer HD lace being even finer, making it very easy to tear and it needs handling very delicately. Wigs for theatre are made with thicker lace, as it is more durable and robust.
Hair lace is used where a more natural looking wig is required, especially on the front hairline, as there isn’t a hard edge. The front lace goes onto the wearer’s forehead and should blend into the skin and not be noticeable on camera, stage or even to the eye for the finer laces.
Wigs made completely with a hair lace foundation is called ahair lace wig. A wig that has no lace at the front and is made with a solid edge instead, is known as ahard-front wig.
A custom-made hair lace wig is the most expensive type of wig you can buy.
All over fine lace wig is the most expensive, this would mainly be made for very close up HD camera work where the hair needed to move freely on camera.
Images from instagram @samuel_james_wigs
There are many different types of knots but here are the knots generally used when making or repairing a wig.
Single knotting
In single knotting, individual knots of hair are added to the foundation net. This is the most common method of knotting when a fine net is used. Different sizes of knotting hooks will be used, depending on the amount of hair needed for each knot.
Double knotting
Use double knots when you need to make the hair absolutely secure. The result, unfortunately, tends to be more unsightly because the knots are less easily concealed. Double knotting is used on the crown and large parts of the foundation but single knotting will usually be used for the more visible parts of the wig.
Point knotting
Point knotting is single knotting the point ends of the hair. Cut the root ends away, which allows the hair to lift from the piece. Use this technique for men’s short-haired postiche, on the nape of a short-haired woman, or on light fringes.
Underknotting
After the piece has been knotted, turn it inside out on a malleable block. Apply single knotting tot the edge of the foundation, following the direction of the hair on the other side. Add two or three rows of underknotting. On completion, the wig is usually pressed, using tissue paper or a cloth to protect the hair.
Competitive prices from Artisan Wigs show roughly how much it costs to buy ventilated postiche wigs, and also the maintenance:
Full wigs from £2300
Toupes and Hair pieces from £1300
Clusters from £700
Switches from £600
Services
Full wig Wash and Blow-dry from £55
Toupe or Hair pieceWash and Blow-dry from £40
Colouring from £55
Maintenance from £55 per hour
Facial Hair
Beards from £400
Moustaches from £95
Chin Beard from £200
Eyebrows from £95 (pair)
Sideburns from£95 (pair)
Mutton Chops from £140 (pair)
