There Is Only One Secret to Caramelizing Onions (2024)

Brow Beat

By L.V. Anderson

There Is Only One Secret to Caramelizing Onions (1)

According to Gallic lore, onion soup was invented when King Louis XV found himself stranded at a hunting lodge late one night with nothing in the pantry except onions, butter, and champagne. This story is obviously apocryphal. For one thing, onion soup has been made for as long as there have been fire, water, people, and onions; it didn’t need some peckish monarch to invent it. For another, proper onion soup takes hours to prepare—if you were urgently hungry late at night, it would be one of the least efficient things you could make. Also, isn’t squandering champagne tantamount to flag-burning in France? I suspect that this hunting lodge legend has more to do with Louis XV’s popular image as a debaucherous do-nothing king than with French onion soup per se.

But the legend does get two things right: One, French onion soup is the perfect thing to eat after spending a long day enjoying the great outdoors (especially when it’s chilly outside); two, French onion soup should satisfy refined palates. You’re on your own for that first thing, but I can help with the second.

The key to good French onion soup is to cook the onions so long that they threaten to melt into a viscous, dark brown paste, à la Marmite. As has already been extensively reported in Slate, there are no shortcuts when you’re caramelizing onions; it always takes at least an hour, usually longer. And it’s better to err on the side of low heat (as I do in the video below) than to try to speed things up by ratcheting the heat up to medium—the higher the heat, the more likely it is that the onions will scorch when you walk away from them.

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Many people will tell you the other key to good French onion soup is to use homemade stock. (Beef is traditional; chicken is perfectly good; vegetable is fine in my book, although I am well aware that many consider it comparable to a “liquefied compost heap.”) It’s true that homemade stock is superior to storebought, and it’s also true that you can make stock in about the same amount of time it’ll take you to caramelize your onions, but I am nonetheless not a stickler on this point. I would never use bouillon cubes, which are as boring as the sex lives of Arcade Fire (according to one cranky music critic). But there are some decent commercial stocks sold in cartons, and I’m fond of the jarred concentrated pastes that are meant to be diluted into something very much resembling good stock.

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In this country, French onion soup is conventionally topped with a slice of bread and copious cheese, and then browned in the oven. The theory behind this is sound—bread and cheese are hearty enough to turn onion soup into a main course—but the traditional execution is flawed. It’s an unnecessary struggle to transfer bowls of hot soup into and out of the oven, and the volcanic appearance of cheese dripping down the side of a soup tureen is vulgar. (Also, letting cheese drip down the side of a bowl is a waste of good cheese.) It is much less of a hassle first to melt the cheese on the bread, and then to float the bread on top of the soup.

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French Onion Soup
Yield: 4 servings
Time: 2 to 4 hours, partially unattended

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3½ pounds yellow onions, sliced
Salt and black pepper
⅓ cup dry white wine
6 cups beef, chicken, or vegetable stock
4 fresh thyme sprigs
3 ounces gruyère cheese, grated
4 slices sourdough bread

1. Put the olive oil and butter in a large pot over medium-low heat. When the butter melts, add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thick and dark brown, 1 to 3 hours.

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2. Add the wine, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook until the wine evaporates. Add the stock and thyme sprigs, bring to a boil, and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the oven (or a toaster oven) to 400°F, or heat a broiler. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the bread slices, and bake or broil until the cheese is melted and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes.

4. Remove the thyme sprigs from the soup, and discard them. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning. Ladle the soup into four bowls, top each bowl with a bread slice, and serve.

Previously in You’re Doing It Wrong:
Pumpkin Seeds
Spaghetti
Polenta
Olives
Potato-Leek Soup
Black-Eyes Peas
Butternut Squash Soup

  • Food
  • Recipes

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There Is Only One Secret to Caramelizing Onions (2024)

FAQs

There Is Only One Secret to Caramelizing Onions? ›

While you can start the cooking process at medium heat, low and slow is the name of the game when it comes to caramelizing onions. Once your onions begin to soften and take on a golden hue, you'll want to reduce the heat from medium to medium-low or even low for the remainder of the cooking process.

Why are my onions not caramelizing? ›

Your heat isn't at the right temp, use between medium and medium-low. Adding too many onions at once can actually cause them to steam because of too much moisture, instead of caramelizing. Brown them first (before carmeling) by sautéing them on med to medium high using just enough fat to cover pan bottom.

What is the science behind caramelizing onions? ›

When onions caramelize, one of the main things that happens is the sucrose, or natural sugar hidden within their cells, is transformed into other, simpler forms of sugar, including glucose and fructose. Those sugars taste sweeter than sucrose, which accounts for the increase in sweetness as the onions caramelize.

Why add vinegar to caramelize onions? ›

Vinegar. This is our secret ingredient to make the best caramelized onions. Vinegar adds a touch of acidity to balance out the sweetness of the onions.

How does Gordon Ramsay caramelized onions? ›

Caramelize the onions: Heat about 1 tablespoon of canola oil in a large skillet or dutch oven over medium-low heat. Once hot, add the onions and stir to coat. Let cook, stirring every 5-10 minutes, until deeply caramelized, about 1 ½ - 2 hours.

What is the trick to caramelizing onions? ›

A Step-by-Step Guide to Caramelizing Onions
  1. Add Oil to the Pan. Heat 2 Tablespoons of unsalted butter (or a mix of butter and oil) in a large pan over medium heat. ...
  2. Add Onions In Batches. ...
  3. Cook Over Medium Low, Stirring Occasionally. ...
  4. Deglaze the Pan. ...
  5. Serve or Store.
Mar 2, 2022

Can you put too much butter in caramelized onions? ›

Just make sure not to exceed the ratio of two tablespoons per two onions, as you don't want to end up frying the onions. You only need enough oil and butter to coat the bottom of the pan without fully submerging the onions.

Do onions caramelize better with butter or oil? ›

Our Test Kitchen likes to use butter when caramelizing onions, as it offers the richest flavor. If you avoid dairy or don't have butter, you can caramelize onions in other fat such as margarine or olive oil. Add the onion slices. It's okay if they overlap a bit here because they'll shrink as they cook down.

What makes onions caramelize faster? ›

So adding water and covering the skillet causes the raw onions to wilt faster and more evenly as the water turns to steam. Then, uncover the skillet and begin a process of pressing the softened onions into the bottom and sides of the skillet for maximum contact—and maximum browning.

Why do you add sugar to caramelize onions? ›

If you need to caramelize onions quickly, adding sugar or a pinch of baking soda (to raise the pH level and help them brown quicker) can help to speed up the caramelization process but truly they aren't a dish that cooks up quickly. If using baking soda I'd suggest about 1/4 tsp per pound of raw onions.

What is the best liquid to caramelize onions in? ›

You can use just oil, or a combination of butter and oil—the choice is yours! If you pack too many onions into your pan, they'll steam and produce water. Eventually, they will caramelize—but it will take much longer to get them there.

Should you stir onions while caramelizing? ›

Turn or stir the onions so that they evenly become soft and brown, but don't worry about exact timing. Continue stirring those onions and enjoy watching them turn from white to a delicious golden brown. As they begin to soften, reduce the heat to medium-low or low.

Why do you add baking soda to caramelize onions? ›

When you add baking soda during cooking it changes the pH which increases the Maillard reaction causing the onions to brown more quickly. The higher pH also causes the onions to soften more quickly, which we cover below when we discuss the texture.

Do onions caramelize faster with a lid? ›

Once the water is boiling or close to it, put a lid on the pan so the onions can steam. This essentially massively speeds up the process of wilting the onions, which can be the first 15-20 minutes of the sautéing process.

What is the difference between caramelized onions and sauteed onions? ›

Sautéing is about softening and lightly flavoring the onions, while caramelizing is about developing a rich, sweet complexity. Unfortunately, you can't swap one out for the other without changing the flavor profile of your dish. Sautéing onions quickly brings out their natural flavors while maintaining some brightness.

How do you know when onions are caramelized enough? ›

You'll know the onions are ready when they're deep brown in color and jammy in texture. They should also be fully translucent and completely sweet. If they're still kind of crunchy, or they still have some of that raw onion bite, let them cook for a bit longer.

Why are onions taking so long to caramelize? ›

Before onions can caramelize, enough moisture has to evaporate out of the pan for the cooking surface to climb above 212 degrees. That alone takes a while, and once it happens, you're still committed to stirring and scraping so the onions' natural sugars break down evenly.

Why do my onions burn instead of caramelize? ›

The onions will indeed heat faster when cut really thinly, but they'll end up heating too fast for true caramelization to occur. Onions need to cook for a long time for the natural sugars to come out and for that delicate flavor to develop. If they heat up too quickly, they'll burn before that can happen.

Why are my crispy onions not crispy? ›

To get crispy onions you need to deep fry it in a lot of oil. Sauteing in a shallow pan will result in softened onions as they release their juice slowly and get cooked. Don't add salt as they are frying as it will further draw the moisture out and soften the onions.

Do you caramelize onions on low or high heat? ›

While you can start the cooking process at medium heat, low and slow is the name of the game when it comes to caramelizing onions. Once your onions begin to soften and take on a golden hue, you'll want to reduce the heat from medium to medium-low or even low for the remainder of the cooking process.

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