Koeksisters and koesisters: The sweet heritage of South Africa (2024)

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Koeksisters and koesisters: The sweet heritage of South Africa (7)

  • Published by Jules Keohane on

    In the diversity of South African culinary traditions, few treats hold as much cultural significance and sweet nostalgia as the koeksister and the koesister.

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    The koeksister

    For many South Africans, a koeksister is far more than a sweet fried pastry; it’s a piece of identity. As Wilbur Smith aptly puts it, a koeksister is ‘heritage…culture…family and history’ all wrapped up in a delicious, syrup-soaked package.

    Koeksisters are crafted from a simple but magical combination of ingredients: dough, sugar syrup or honey, aniseed, cinnamon and mixed spice. Plaited strips of dough are lovingly fried to a crisp golden perfection, then plunged into ice-cold sugar syrup.

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    Biting into a koeksister is a sensory journey like no other. Picture a crunchy crust that gives way to a liquid syrup centre.

    Many South Africans can recount a cherished koeksister memory from their lives. These syrupy delights are more than just a snack; they’re a comforting connection to the past. They’re akin to the comfort foods found in cultures worldwide, offering solace and nostalgia.

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    Koeksisters’ roots can be traced back to Dutch settlers who arrived in South Africa in 1652, bringing with them recipes for doughnuts and a sweet bowtie-shaped pastry made from pasta dough.

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    Hester Wilhelmina Claassens, in her doctoral thesis Die Geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806, traces the roots of the koeksister to 17th-century Holland, where a popular cake known as ‘stroopkoek’ (syrup cake) reigned supreme.

    This cake was akin to the ‘oliekoek’ (oil cake), which was eventually known as ‘(Olie)Bolle’ in the Cape. The connection between these Dutch recipes and the beloved koeksister becomes evident.

    The journey of the koeksister unfolds further as one traces its path from Arabia to Southern Spain, then to the Dutch culinary tradition. With Dutch colonisation came the migration of recipes, and the koeksister found its way to South Africa.

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    The name itself has an interesting history, possibly originating from the sound the dough makes when it sizzles in boiling oil. It may also find its roots in the Dutch word ‘koekje,’ meaning ‘cookie.’

    The koesister

    South Africa is also home to the koesister, a close relative of the koeksister but with distinct differences. Koesisters are a Cape Malay specialty, oval dough balls with a doughnut-like texture, infused with spices and naartjie peel, and characterised by their darker hue.

    Koeksisters and koesisters: The sweet heritage of South Africa (9)

    Koesisters are said by some to take their name from the polite gossiping, or ‘koes,’ among spinsters.

    Koesisters are akin to spicy, cake-like dumplings, deep-fried to golden perfection and then bathed in hot syrup and coated with desiccated coconut. They are typically enjoyed on a leisurely Sunday morning, a cherished tradition in many South African households.

    To celebrate this culinary heritage, World KOEsister Day was established, held on the first Sunday in September every year.

    Both the koeksisters and koesisters take their rightful places within the nation’s culinary scene. They are more than pastries; they are keepers of stories, vessels of tradition and sweet tokens of heritage.

    So, the next time you savour a koeksister or koesister, take a moment to appreciate the rich history and cultural significance encapsulated within these sweet, syrupy delights.

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    Picture:Pixabay

    Article written by Jules Keohane

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